need to get a Project page going for my Framework Desktop build & 2026 network overhaul
NEXT pick a hostname and add it to my arroyo-system
it'll basically just the microvm for langlemangling , just in a way that the bot can manage that part of the arroyo system on its own.... but need to be careful with LAN and network access.
it'll need some sort of outbound firewall solution, ugh.
WAITING wait for new micro-atx mobo and case to arrive for windows machine
NEXT find my windows 10 activation key to re-activate it when i change mobo
WAITING put the FW desktop board in the 4U rosewill case
WAITING rebuild my windows PC around the micro-atx
NEXT buy a smart switch with at least 3 VLANs and another wifi access point
NEXT re-deploy hermes with a more liberal access model
since i'll not be using remote inference i'm okay with not everything going through arcology's risk-gating CLI, but/also it needs to be really careful mixing journal & tool-agents. i feel like the default agent should be a coordinator that has access to ~/org and most other things do not get to touch the files directly
NEXT get to the point where hermes can manage itself
NEXT switch off of ollama as default inference engine
this is easy enough, have lm-studio run on the host, have a little microvm that the
NEXT play with some gguf models & run some benchmarks
NEXT design some agent and cronjob stuff that is more akin to how i want to use it
give the clanker its own directory that it can write its own journal & org files
give the clanker its own arcology site that i can read over tailscale
have clanker use the arcology CLI for memory
i want to be able to write in to my journal to start things and get a push notification when the output is in org and on the site
the coding harness will be much slower with qwen 3.8 flash bla bla etc.... so i want to be able to do longer-term planning work with it, it's okay if a feature takes all night to plan and all day to cook up as long as it doesn't just fall in to a black hole
maybe opencode stays on ollama glm flash models, but hermes botstuff is local-only
NEXT agent toolkit
more impersonal default agent, less helpful customer-service-y
one that is SFT'd on my own writing, something that gets closer to my own voice for prose in projects
something like computer-10
something that can help me make my published writing and infosphere more legible
NEXT BeamCase SFF V5 + (m)ATX intro and assembly (video outline)
I wanna 3d print a better case for the mATX windows machine than the Lian Li... spent some money on these STLs
Outline of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmuCMyEiZYI - "BeamCase SFF V5 and (m)ATX version - Intro and assembly" (about 62 min). DIY 3D-printable PC case system: MakerBeam XL extrusions + printed brackets, designed around big air coolers, Ender-3-friendly since V5.
00:00 - Intro
BeamCase is a DIY computer case system: 15x15 MakerBeam XL aluminium extrusions plus 3D-printed brackets, assembled into a frame yourself. The design focus is fitting LARGE air coolers (NH-D15 class) into small cases. This video is the SFF version 5 update and the introduction of the micro-ATX and full-ATX versions. V5 is a ground-up rework of the construction; the headline outcome is that the entire case, in every size including full ATX, prints on small hobby printers.
00:55 - Construction and v5 update
Rear I/O panel is now always TWO pieces: an upper rear bracket plus a lower rear bracket. They slide together and are joined by 8 screw connections (2 on each side, 4 in the center). This joint took the longest to engineer and is why the ATX version took so long to release.
Lower brackets come in slot counts: 2-slot (2-slot ITX), 3-slot (3-slot ITX), 4-slot (micro-ATX), 7-slot (full ATX). The upper rear bracket is shared across all versions, so you pick the lower bracket that matches your board and get the right rear height and slot count.
Upper rear bracket variants: internal-PSU version (clamp-in PSU extension cutout, 120mm rear fan spot, 16mm power button hole) shown in the video; a rear-ATX-PSU version (mounts a full ATX PSU at the rear, costs you some CPU cooler clearance, has a 60mm power button spot); and a blank STEP + STL template so you can CAD your own cutouts (extra buttons, pump mounts, anything).
v5 vs v4.7: ITX case dimensions and mounting positions are unchanged. The split rear construction is actually STRONGER than before because material got thicker everywhere. GPU mounting changed: instead of reaching nuts through the top, there is now a dedicated PCI cover bracket with nut inserts (clamp mount, shown at the component stage).
Printer requirements drop drastically: because the rear panel is split, its longest piece is around 218mm and just fits a standard Ender 3 style bed. A P1S/A1-class machine is no longer required.
06:51 - Required parts
MakerBeam XL profiles:
4x 300mm for the case length (minimum for most configurations; longer beams add GPU clearance, e.g. 360mm). Panels are designed around 300mm, which gives about 350mm of GPU clearance (fits 4090/4080 FE class). Every case panel ships as a STEP so you can resize for other lengths.
Height: 200mm beams for all ITX versions and for mATX; the full ATX version instead needs 2x 300mm beams for height. Exact counts per version are in his Printables principles post. The printed brackets make up the difference between beam length and true case height, so you never cut custom profiles.
Optional aluminium: a 150mm beam with corner cubes for the top front. Expensive (beams come in packs of 4, cubes in packs of 12, about 25 EUR, lots left over). 3D-printed replacements exist (versions with holes and with a single slot). Not as strong as aluminium but strong enough, and compatible with the SFX PSU mount. He uses the printed replacement in the video. Screws (same as v4): M3 countersunk 8mm; M3 countersunk 16mm in quantity; standard M3 nuts. Optional: flat thin square M3 nuts plus the printed nut positioners that keep nuts from sliding in the profile. Special: 4x 6-32 UNC screws, about 18mm overall length / 16mm thread, ONLY for the PSU mount (PSUs do not take M3; he buys an assorted Amazon pack). Head style is free; hex or Torx recommended, Phillips works. Cables: power button (the bracket shown takes a 16mm button; the BOM names a 60mm button as standard for other variants, any button works with a custom bracket, he sleeves his own); internal PSU extension, about 30cm clamp-style (or a C14 screw-in type); angle and length depend on your configuration. Only needed if the PSU is internal SFX/SFX-L; with a rear ATX PSU you skip it.
14:53 - 3d printed parts
Version-independent parts (work with 2-slot ITX through full ATX):
Upper rear bracket: print the variant matching your PSU plan (internal SFX with extension + rear 120mm fan used here; or rear ATX PSU; or the blank template).
Standardized internal SFX PSU bracket: extremely flexible, many mounting positions and orientations.
3D-printed upper beam replacement: alternative to the 150mm aluminium beam + corner cubes. Version-defining parts:
Lower rear bracket in your slot count (2/3/4/7).
Mainboard beams: 2 for ITX (small and narrow, 4 board-mounting holes each); 3 for mATX/ATX, numbered 1/2/3 at the bottom (boards have more mounting holes).
Lower bracket, lower beam replacement, PCI cover, IO cover, motherboard spacers.
These printed pieces make up the height difference between the 200mm beams and the actual case height of each version (mATX taller than ITX, ATX taller still).
The mainboard beams also carry the 4-hole groups and nut recesses at mid-height that exist to screw SPLIT case panels together (why they are on the beams even if you never split panels).
18:51 - Prepping 3d printed parts
Before any assembly, press M3 nuts into all the recesses:
The lower rear bracket needs the most nuts (its 8-screw connection to the upper bracket).
The backs of all mainboard beams need nuts.
If you plan case panels or split panels, add those panel nuts now too (he skips them for the demo build). Method: press the nut in as far as it will go (by hand or with a screw started into it), then squeeze it fully home with pliers. Recessed nuts: start a small screw into the nut, grip and press with pliers until it sits fully recessed, then unscrew and remove the helper screw. Seating feel depends on your printer's tolerances.
21:14 - Assembly of rear IO panel
Slide the lower rear bracket onto the upper rear bracket to make one unit.
Screws: 8mm countersunk on the top connection, 60mm countersunk on the sides (and the 4 center ones). Only countersunk M3 in 8/16/60mm are needed anywhere on the case.
Do NOT fully tighten yet: press the assembly down onto the table to check everything sits flat and aligned, then tighten completely.
Do not overtighten: at some point you split the plastic, but these joints take a lot of torque first. The finished unit is very secure; a little residual flex remains and disappears once the full case is assembled.
23:34 - Adding mainboard beams
Connect the first mainboard beam to the joined rear bracket: it slots in and takes 2x 8mm countersunk screws through holes with pre-installed nuts. This brace adds stiffness to the frame overall.
Pre-insert 8mm screws with M3 nuts, LOOSELY, into each remaining mainboard beam first (much easier than fitting after sliding onto the profiles).
Keep all beam screws loose (play left) and slide the beams over the 300mm length profiles, aligning the nuts with the slots as you go.
Use 60mm screws through the holes at the back to secure the beam assembly to the rear panel. Everything stays loose until all beams are seated.
26:03 - Lower beam replacement
Align the remaining mainboard beams with the printed spacing jig included in the files: it has the correct hole spacing, print it, set the gaps, order is 1 lowest then 2 then 3 (numbers printed on the beams). At this point the board could already be mounted, but complete the frame first.
Add the other two 300mm beams at the front; the case takes shape.
Height: the 200mm beams do not reach the full case height. The printed lower beam replacement makes up the remaining height, which is exactly why you do not need custom-cut profiles (custom-cut beams are possible but cost extra).
The printed replacement is less flexible than aluminium, but having the beams run along the top adds strength across the whole span.
29:55 - Adding nuts for case panels and accessories
Best time to slide extra nuts into the profiles is now, while the frame is still open:
Case panels need 4 nuts per outer face (top, bottom, front, rear positions).
Add anything else you plan to hang off the frame: fan mounts, accessory brackets, plus a few spares on inside faces (his habit, just in case).
Use the printed nut positioners with the flat M3 nuts so the nuts stay put.
Not critical: if you forget some, you can remove the bottom, top or front piece later and slide more in.
31:31 - SFX PSU bracket positioning and mounting
The standardized internal SFX PSU bracket is universal: it mounts in many positions and orientations. Install some 16mm screws and M3 nuts into it, then slide it into the frame and screw it down.
For mATX and ATX builds the best position is directly in front of the motherboard near the top of the case: the PSU sits right ahead of the board and the entire lower area stays open (that is the room for a large air cooler). It just barely fits there, by design.
For ITX versions you can also mount it to the side or higher up since the short board leaves room; your hardware config decides, so experiment.
Use flat nuts with printed positioners here so the bracket stays removable later (with standard nuts they slide around if the case tips).
With the 3D-printed upper beam replacement: secure the PSU bracket in place first, then attach the replacement to it. The printed replacement takes 8mm screws in its corners that thread into the aluminium profiles; the PSU bracket screws then thread directly into the plastic holes (not the strongest joint, plenty strong for the job).
Attach the two 200mm beams via the replacement. Screw rule: screws pointing outward are 8mm; screws going down through deep holes are 16mm.
34:32 - Completing basic frame
Finish the top: the remaining printed beam replacement goes on with 8mm screws; screws that go down through the deep slots use 16mm.
Tool note: those deep recesses need a long-reach screwdriver, a short bit driver will not fit. Only the mATX version has these deep holes (2-slot ITX and full ATX are shorter), so the long driver is really only required for mATX.
The bare frame holds motherboard + GPU + PSU and nothing else; everything is an optional add-on (fan brackets, x-braces).
Rigidity: already very strong, barely any flex when he twists it hard. Optional X-braces (free on his Printables profile) stiffen it further, especially fitted all around.
38:00 - Mounting mainboard, GPU, PSU
Demo hardware: SFX PSU, Asus RTX 3070 TUF (300mm long, close to the max for 300mm beams), a micro-ATX board. He does not build a full system (his parts are in other machines), but covers every mount. Motherboard: drop it in through the top (this board has an integrated IO shield). Mount with 16mm screws wearing the printed spacers: the spacer corrects the effective screw length and spreads the load instead of point-loading the board. Slot everything in loosely, align, then tighten.
Mount the CPU cooler backplate BEFORE seating the board: the printed beams are thicker than metal ones, so access to the back of the board is poor once it is in the frame. He skipped it for the demo and points out he would not in a real build. GPU: slot it into the PCIe slot at an angle through the top. New v5 clamping mount: nuts in the rear PCI cover squeeze the bracket into place. Slide the PCI cover in, then run 2x 60mm screws through the positions where the GPU's own bracket screws go, and tighten (flipping the case upright can help reach). The GPU ends up clamped between the PCI cover and the frame, rock solid.
Only add clamp screws at slots that are actually populated: screws at empty slots just bend the frame. Do any additional add-in cards at the end.
There is an optional screw at the bottom to secure the PCI bracket's lower end (adds a bit of stiffness).
GPU sag: dedicated support brackets may come; until then use the GPU's anti-sag holder or your own printed support.
Clearance: the gap under the board takes 140mm intake fans, or fits a thick GPU instead. PSU: SFX or SFX-L into the bracket using the four 6-32 UNC screws. Once tight, the PSU is extremely secure, he lifts the whole case by it. Travel-safe.
45:33 - Adding internal PSU extension and power button
Clamp-in internal PSU extension (his preferred screwless type):
Plug it in, drop the socket end into the top cutout of the rear bracket, let the cable squeeze through the slot.
It is not tight yet: tighten the 16mm screw at the bottom of the clamp bracket, which squeezes the plug in place so it cannot slide in or out.
The plug's angle is deliberate: on ITX builds with a big air cooler (NH-D15) a straight plug would run straight into it. The angle routes the cable under large coolers and along the top into the PSU. Power button:
The 16mm button seats into the rear bracket hole. The rear position was chosen deliberately because it works on every configuration of the case (front mounting may come later). Standard button has a long pigtail; sleeve it yourself for the black look.
48:46 - Attaching split panels
micro-ATX volume: about 17L while still fitting an NH-D15, unusually compact.
Printer math: every mATX printed part fits a 220x220mm bed by printing the long pieces diagonally at 45 degrees. A Bamboo Lab A1 mini (180mm bed) is NOT enough.
Side panels: full-height panels would need to be 290mm, even a P1S cannot print that. So panels split at the middle using the screw points built into the mainboard beams: 4 panels per side. The bottom piece can carry vent patterns while the top stays solid. One-piece panels are fine if your printer is big enough; split panels are available for all versions including the sff ITX, so even the ITX case prints entirely on an Ender 3. The split is really only forced on full ATX because of its height.
Middle support options at the split line: a lower support rising from the bottom; a full-height support (strongest, bottom to top); a top-only support if you need bottom clearance for mounts; or connecting the two panels to each other with a simple bracket without touching the frame (weakest but easiest panel mounting).
The rear I/O bracket also has holes to screw the side panels to at the rear (16mm screws); the front panel is also two pieces. He plans a dedicated enclosure video.
54:08 - Full ATX demo build
His completed full-ATX build, shown fully enclosed: full ATX motherboard, single GPU (a dual-GPU build would also fit), 120mm rear intake fan with a shroud, Noctua NH-D15 chromax (black version), SFX-L PSU, and the case-panel support bracket rising from the bottom.
Bottom intakes are 140mm fans (brackets free on the Printables profile). Clearance between board bottom and frame rail is barely enough to plug in fan and front-panel cables, same on mATX.
A front fan is possible only if the GPU leaves room; his long GPU eats that space.
Radiators: a 240mm fits; a 280mm does not in this configuration (too long, interferes with the board), a 280 would require relocating the PSU.
Very modular: the PSU can move to the rear or elsewhere; water cooling is possible because you can rearrange everything to your requirements.
Weight and size: the bare case is under 1.5kg; the whole ATX build is close to 8kg with one GPU; 22L with panels, fits in a carry-on suitcase.
Advice: for single-GPU builds micro-ATX is usually the better pick: bigger board means more USB ports than modern ITX boards and 4 RAM slots, without full-ATX bulk. Go full ATX mainly for dual GPU.
58:07 - Conclusion
Files are on Printables. BeamCase ATX and mATX files are already uploaded; the SFF version 5 update publishes very soon and may already be out when you watch.
Pricing: if you already bought the BeamCase SFF ITX files, the v5 update is free. BeamCase ATX (and mATX) are separate purchases, and they include all frame brackets AND all case panel parts, STEP files included so you can customize panels with your own motifs. Fan and accessory brackets are free downloads on his profile. Alternative case panel versions compatible with v5 exist; more are coming.
Related design: the smaller sandwich style case is also on Printables (the new GPU clamp mount was inspired by it).
Buying the files funds the screws, aluminium and hardware he uses to keep testing new case variations.